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PART 4 - Wrapping the Guides
With the Reel Seat and Grip in place and the epoxy fully dry and cured move on to wrapping the guides. Make sure you pay close attention to the alignment marks during this process. It's very hard to realign the guides after they're securely wrapped.

Start out by marking the correct guide spacing on the blank. You can use a piece of tape or simple tape the guide in place.

* Most guide spacing charts are measured from the top of the assembled blank unless otherwise noted.

Remove the marker tape. Before placing the guides read the below!
You've got a little prep work to do on the guide feet. Most of them aren't tapered enough at the tip of the foot, this will prevent your thread wraps from butting up next to each other at the transition of the foot and blank.
Using a file or stone, file down the lip to leave a short taper at the end of the guide foot.
A correctly filed foot. Make sure to do both of them if you're using double foot guides! Make sure you don't leave a sharp lip on the underside of the guide foot as sometimes happens when tapering it. If you do leave one simply file it smooth/flat.
You can wrap the guides in whatever order you find easiest. Attach the first guide using a thin strip of tape or a hot glue product like Flex Coats Guide foot adhesive. Just remember, if you're using any kind of adhesive your alignment needs to be perfect before you wrap it. It's just about impossible to reposition glued guides!
There are a number of wrappers that are available commercially ranging in price from $50 to well over $500. Here I'm going to show you a no cost technique that's worked for me for well over 20 years.
The main purpose of the machines is to keep tention on the thread as you wrap the guides. Also, they allow the blank to be rotated easily. You can get the same result by using a cup, heavy book, and a weight. The cup stops the thread from rolling around and the book and weight provide thread tention. Your hands allow the blank to be spun.
Start off by cutting a 6" piece of strong thread, folding it into a loop and setting it aside. High strength, low diameter threads such as Gudebrods GSX work best. This will be used to pull tag ends back through the wraps, believe me, you don't want it to break!
Using your wrapping thread tape the end along and above the guide to one side.
Run the thread back down to just below the bottom foot and begin wrapping.
When you get to the end of the bottom foot continue the wrap in back of the guide and onto the top foot.
Just before you come off the top foot, place the loop of thread along the blank with the loop facing toward the unwrapped portion of the guide.
Continue wrapping the remaining foot and just a few wraps onto the bare blank. While maintaining tention on your thread, cut it and thread the end thru the loop.
Pull the loop (and tag end) back under the wraps. This will secure the thread wraps. Trim the tag end.
Using a burnishing tool, or your fingernail, smooth out any bumps in the thread or tighten up any loose wraps.
Make sure the guide is aligned correctly with the spine alignment marks. Repeat the wrapping process for remaining guides.

Typically I'll finish the bottom piece of the rod first, then apply the finish, throw it on the dryer and proceed to wrap the remaining piece(s).




Intro
Finding the Spine
Reel Seat
Grip
Guides
NEXT - Finishing and Tip Top

Rod Building



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