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Bueter in AK Egg
Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 3
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:57 am Post subject: Articulated flies |
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I have kind of a dumb question but i cant seem to figure it out..
When tying an articulated fly do you use the longer shank hook in the front or the back?...and which hook do you clip off?..and is there certain situations when that would change..like if you use 2 4x long streamer hooks joined together would you then clip the front one rather than the back one to avoid false hits?
thanx
Brandon |
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fish2much Lunker
Joined: 06 Mar 2004 Posts: 285 Location: Monroe, MI
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:43 am Post subject: |
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Just my personal opinion of a generic summary.
1. If it's a baitfish clip the back hook, most attacks are directed at the head or front half of the body.
2. If it's and insect you can go either way depending on what the most commonly accepted way to tie the pattern is.
3. Keep in mind that a tail hook means the hook will be further down the fishes throat. I've tied some patterns with the back hook clipped just to avoid injuring fish (as long as it doesn't kill the action of the fly)
4. THERE ARE NO RIGHT ANSWERS. DO WHATEVER WORKS BEST FOR YOU AND LET THAT BE YOUR GUIDE. |
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BrianD Lunker
Joined: 06 Mar 2004 Posts: 404 Location: SE Michigan
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Brandon,
Saltwater, pike and muskie flies I generally leave both. Most of the time the fly is tied on the front hook and the rear is only a trailer, so not really articulated. As fish2much pointed out, these fish attack bait at the head. The rear hook is only added insurance.
Don't do many articulated nymphs any more, but I always clipped the rear hook. This way I don't have to worry about making a heavy duty connection to the rear, which makes tying much faster.
Salmon and particularly steelhead flies I always clip the front as these fish are prone to "nipping" from behind.
One piece of advice... besides added movement, one of the primary benefits of articulated flies is that it reduces the leverage associated with long-shank hooks. So rather than go with two 4x long hooks, you'd be better off going with a 2x and a 7x (or something like that!), with the 2x being the one with the hook point remaining. If that doesn't do it for you in length, you may want to try moving to a tube or waddington shank.
Best,
Brian |
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Bueter in AK Egg
Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 3
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 11:56 pm Post subject: |
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hey thanx for the advice..its a flesh fly..we use a lot of those out here for the big rainbows..so i think im gonna go with leaving the back one.. its primarily for steelies, dollys and the big bows..most of the time they do take it from the back (the fly that is)..so i think im gonna go with that...thanx again for the advice..ill let you know how it goes.
Brandon |
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BrianD Lunker
Joined: 06 Mar 2004 Posts: 404 Location: SE Michigan
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Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Brandon,
If I were tying a flesh fly, I'd go with a large Mustad up-eyed salmon iron chopped at the bend for the front hook. These make a good heavy-duty shank very inexpensively. I'd run a Octapus, about #2, behind that on a short 30# dacron joint.
Share a few fishy pics after you test it out!
Best,
Brian |
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